Paper

Storage boxes for flat paper

Boxes allow paper items to be stored flat, while also providing effective protection against mechanical damage, light, dust, and extremes and rapid changes in temperature and relative humidity. For the best protection, the boxes should be made from archival materials.

Boxes are important if you are providing layers of storage for your collections. Layers of storage mean layers of protection.

Loose paper items can be interleaved with archival tissue or paper and stored directly in archival boxes. Items that have been encapsulated or placed in enclosures can also be boxed. Ideally, when storing collections of items they should be placed in uniform-sized mounts and enclosures that fit neatly into boxes. This limits movement within the box and minimises damage.

The Solander box is the highest quality box which is commonly used for storing flat paper. It is very sturdy and has a shallow clam-shell design with a hinged lid that opens out flat and closes firmly.

Solander boxes are sturdy and very protective. Be careful if you are lifting large Solander boxes, containing a number of items as they can be quite heavy. Photograph courtesy of the Ian Potter Art Conservation Service, University of Melbourne

Cardboard and polypropylene boxes in various sizes and designs are available commercially. Boxes can be ordered to special sizes, but this may be costly for a small order. Simple, medium-strength boxes can be custom-made for storing flat paper items.

The lid of the Solander box closes down over the base—like a clam-shell. Photograph courtesy of the Ian Potter Art Conservation Service, University of Melbourne

Making a storage box

To make a strong, inexpensive box with a double thickness of board on the base and a triple thickness on the top, you will need:

• a sheet of archival, single-wall, corrugated, box-making board such as Archivart Multi-use board;

• a cutting mat preferably with a gridded surface;

• a sharp cutting knife;

• PVA adhesive, preferably acid-free;

• boards for weights;

• a large metal ruler;

• a bone folder;

• a pencil and eraser; and

• a fastening device of some kind. Ty-tite file fasteners, consisting of a cord which wraps around a piece of cardboard and which are attached with rivets are especially effective.

A home-made storage box. Photograph courtesy of the Ian Potter Art Conservation Service, University of Melbourne

Putting the box together

Use the diagram provided to rule up and cut out the first piece. The measurements should allow for:

• the base, which is the same height and width as the items to be boxed plus 3mm;

• the sides of the box, which should be equal to the depth of the items to be stored, stacked one on top of the other plus 3mm; and

• the top of the box—in two pieces, each half the height of the base.

Click here to see diagram

Run the bone folder down the fold lines against a ruler edge to start the creases, then fold the board up against the ruler edge. The two outer flaps should meet over the centre of the item to make an open-sided wrap.

Cut out the strip for the second part of the box, allowing a little extra in the overall width, which can be trimmed later. The height of the strip will be the same as for the base; but the width of each panel will differ, to allow for the thickness of the walls.

Align the folded first piece on the far-left side of the second strip, and mark the first fold line in pencil on the second strip. Make the fold line as above. Work across the second strip from left to right, gradually wrapping the first piece inside the second, marking and folding the board as you go, to ensure a snug fit. Trim off any excess in the width of the second piece when you have completed the box.

Erase any pencil marks. Stick the centre panel of the first piece inside the centre panel of the seconf piece with acid-free PVA. Open out flat, weight down and allow it to dry.

The completed box can be secured in a variety of ways including Ty-tite file fasteners, cotton tape or straps joined with Velcro tabs.

Click here to see diagram

A closed storage box, showing the fastener. Photograph courtesy of the Ian Potter Art Conservation Service, University of Melbourne