Books

Easy do-it-yourself storage enclosures for books

Phase boxes

These boxes are called phase boxes because they are used in libraries in phased conservation programs. When damaged books are identified but cannot be fully treated straight away, they are placed in a phase box for protection—phase 1—until they are programmed for treatment—phase 2.

Phase boxes are usually made from folding box board.

To make a phase box:

• Measure up two pieces of folding box board. The measurements for these pieces have to relate to the dimensions of the book indicated in the diagram below. The measurements for the first piece should allow for:

• the base, (1) on the diagram below, which is the same as the height and width of the book, with a couple of extra millimetres on each dimension to ensure the fit is not too tight;

Click here to see diagram

• the sides of the box (2) which are the same size as the thickness of the book, plus twice the thickness of the board you are using—this extra allowance is for folding;

• flaps (3) which should be the same size as the base, minus 3mm from the height of the book; and

• an additional flap (4) which is the height of the book and no more than the thickness of the book: this last flap is the place where the rivets and washers for fastening the box are placed.

Click here to see diagram

If the book is very thin—less than 3mm—you need to add an additional flap (5). This flap should be 2–5cm wide.

To cut out the first piece, cut along the solid lines indicated in the diagram.

Fold the board along the dotted lines indicated in the diagram. Because folding box board is quite thick, you may need to score both sides of the board with a bone folder, letter opener or the blunt edge of a knife before folding. Folding box board can have quite sharp corners-you may want to round the corners with a corner rounder, knife or scissors.

The measurements for the second section should allow for:

• the base, (1a) on the diagram below. In this case it is the height of the book plus 2–4mm by the width of the book, plus 2–4mm;

• the sides of the box (2a). In this case the sides of the box should measure the same as the sides of the box given for the first piece plus twice the thickness of the board being used. Here you are adding an extra allowance, so that these sides can be slightly larger than the sides on the first piece so they can fold over the flaps of the first piece; and

• the flaps (3a) should be the same size as the base except that the width should be the width of the book minus 3mm.

Click here to see diagram

To cut and fold the second piece, follow the procedures outlined for the first section.

To construct the box:

• make two holes in the base of the first section shown on the first diagram by *1*;

• thread some fishing line through this. When the box is folded, the fishing line should be long enough to wrap around the washers that are placed on flap 4 of the first piece;

Click here to see diagram

• stick the first piece to the second piece using a strong adhesive such as polyvinyl acetate—PVA. The base (1) of the first piece should be stuck on top of the base of the second piece (1a), making the second piece of folding box board the outside board;

• allow the adhesive to dry under weights—this prevents the boards warping;

• punch holes in flap 4 of the first piece; and

• cut two circles of folding box board to use as washers. Punch holes in these and using rivets or folding paper fasteners, attach the washers to the outside of the flap.

Now your phase box is complete and you can fold the box, place your book inside the box and fasten it by winding the fishing line around the washers.

Click here to see diagram

A simple book wrapper

Simple wrappers for books can be made from a laminate of good-quality paper and bookcloth. This is prepared by sticking the paper—dampened slightly—to the bookcloth, using a mixture of acid-free PVA and starch paste. The PVA provides an instant stick, while the starch paste gives you a little bit of slip, in case the paper is not positioned correctly on the bookcloth and you need to slide it into position. The laminate should be lightly pressed while drying, and be fully dry before you start to make the wrapper. Drying can take a couple of days. You may need practice in making this laminate, because the paper and bookcloth can be difficult to handle when they are wet with adhesive. Lightweight, archival-quality board is the easier material to use.

The best tools to use to make the wrapper are a Stanley knife or similar, a metal ruler and a bone folder or letter opener.

To make the wrapper:

• mark out the required dimensions on the material-using pencil;

• the base of the wrapper should be slightly bigger than the book, to allow it to fold without distorting or damaging the book;

• after the base is marked out, you have to mark out the thickness of the book. Again allow a few millimetres more than the actual thickness. The thickness is shown on each flap between the dotted lines;

• the side flaps are then marked out. They should be slightly shorter than the base, and tapered from the base to the outside edge;

Click here to see diagram

• once it is marked out, the wrapper can be cut. The shaded areas on the diagram are cut away and discarded;

• once cutting is complete, the wrapper can be folded. It is easier to fold the board and paper/bookcloth laminate if you run a bone folder, letter opener or the blunt edge of a knife along the fold line first. The dotted lines indicate where the wrapper is folded;

• if you want to make a tab that will fit into a slot in the wrapper to keep the wrapper closed around your book, cut out a tapered tab—shown at the bottom centre of the diagram;

• when the tab has been made, fold up your wrapper and mark out the position and length of the slot. Unfold the wrapper and cut the slot slightly larger than the width of the tab; and

• once cut and folded, the wrapper is ready for use.

To score the wrapper material for easier folding, run a bone folder—shown in the picture—letter opener or the blunt edge of a knife along a metal ruler which has been placed on the line of the fold. Photograph courtesy of Artlab Australia

Folding the wrapper using a bone folder and steel ruler. Photograph courtesy of Artlab Australia

A selection of wrappers for books. Photograph courtesy of Vicki Humphrey