Photographs

Practical steps you can take to improve your photographic storage

Housekeeping is important; storage areas should be kept clean and inspected regularly for mould and insect activity.

Cleaning materials containing chlorine bleaches or ammonia should not be used near photographic collections. Neither should naphthalene, insecticides and fungicides. These are active chemicals which could adversely affect photographs, especially in an enclosed storage environment.

Layers of storage should be provided, with each photograph having its own individual wrapper wherever possible. If you are storing photographs flat, take care not to stack too many individual items on top of others; heavier and larger items should be placed on the bottom of the stack.

Don't store photographs in boxes on the floor. And also take care not to stack too many storage boxes on top of each other. This can make access difficult, damage the collections and increases the risk of injury.

Individually wrapped photographs should be boxed. If you are purchasing storage boxes for your collections, consider buying clamshell or drop-back boxes. These are the same style as Solander boxes and are the preferred design because they allow easy access to all items.

Clamshell or drop-back box with loose-leaf binder incorporated into the box. Photograph courtesy of Artlab Australia, reproduced with permission of South Australian Museum

There are a number of other photographic storage systems, which are available from suppliers of conservation materials.

If you are not able to buy new boxes, you can modify your existing boxes, or use ordinary cardboard boxes and film boxes. These are not ideal, but can be upgraded by lining them with polypropylene, polyester or a good-quality rag paper. You can also seal them with acrylic varnish or acid-free polyvinyl acetate—PVA—but remember that the sealant must be allowed to cure for at least two weeks. Alternatively, you could make your own boxes.

Framed photographs

The glass, frame and mat should be clean. Inspect each item for insects and mould before storing it. Remove the screw-eyes and wire from the frames, because they can scratch and damage other items they come into contact with.

Wrap each framed work in acid-free paper or Tyvek, to protect it from dust and reduce the risk of insect attack, and place it upright in a sturdy box.

Group items according to size; when the sizes vary greatly, place a cardboard spacer between the dissimilar frames. If different sizes are mixed, frames can become distorted and can damage each other.

Mounted or matted photographs

Window mounts provide some protection. However, the surface of each photograph should be protected by covering it with an acid-free, non-buffered, interleaving paper, or by wrapping the mounted photograph in a four-flap wrapper.

Mounted photographs can be stacked flat, but numbers should be limited to five items per stack. The larger the photographs the fewer should be stacked: the weight of stacked items can damage the image layer of the items at the bottom.

Don't stack photographs if you have problems with high or fluctuating humidity. The emulsion could become damp and the weight of other photographs could cause the wrapper to stick to the emulsion. Loosely packed, vertical storage is preferred.

Group the photographs according to size.

Don't overfill storage boxes. The boxes should be of an appropriate size to allow easy access, but also to minimise movement of items within the box.

If a box is not full, the photographs may bend. The empty space can be filled by placing a sandwich of two museum-quality mount boards with acid-free tissue filler in the box.

When moving the photographs, and if storing upright, maintain the correct orientation of the photographs. If mounted correctly, the photographs will be hinged at the top. Maintaining the correct orientation ensures that the hinges are not placed under unnecessary strain.

Mounted photograph. The window mount frames the image and protects the photograph from direct handling. Photograph courtesy of Fred Francisco

Loose photographs

As far as possible loose photographs should be stored according to the storage principles outlined above.

Wherever possible wrap each photograph in a four-flap wrapper made from good-quality materials such as photographic storage paper.

If individual wrappers or enclosures are not possible, the photographs should be interleaved with acid-free non-buffered paper and stored in boxes. Movement within the boxes should be minimised. If a box is not full, the photographs can bend and crease, corners can break and they can tear.

Albums are another alternative for storing loose photographs. Loose photographs can be kept in archival-quality photograph albums. It is important to note that most commercially available albums are not of archival quality.

Collection of loose photographs before storage. Photograph courtesy of the History Trust of South Australia

Cased photographs

Each daguerreotype and ambrotype usually has its own protective case; and these cases are largely responsible for their preservation. The cases are an important part of the object and should be protected and kept clean.

Each case should be wrapped, or have a dust cover made to fit. Cased photographs can be stored in an appropriately sized box or four-flap wrapper made from good-quality materials.

A cased daguerreotype. Photograph courtesy of Artlab Australia, reproduced with permission of the Art Gallery of South Australia

A cased ambrotype. Photograph courtesy of Fred Francisco.

Photographic negatives and slides

Store negatives in acid-free paper negative holders or in polypropylene negative sleeves in ring binders.

Slides can be stored in metal slide files, carousels or trays, covered to keep out dust. Sleeves are available for storing slides in filing cabinets. If the sleeves are of good-quality materials and hold the slides securely, this method is effective. It is important not to overfill the filing cabinet drawers. Easy access leads to better handling.

Plastic sleeves are not recommended in situations where there are problems with high or fluctuating humidity. Plastic sleeves restrict air flow and they can stick to moist emulsion.

Glass negatives and magic lantern slides

Each negative or magic lantern slide should be in its own four-flap wrapper made from good-quality materials such as photographic storage paper.

Storage boxes need to be strong and rigid—to give maximum protection to the glass.

A collection of glass negatives or slides is quite heavy and the storage box must maintain its rigidity when lifted. As the glass is heavy, consider splitting your collection into a number of boxes, rather than putting them all into one. This will protect your collection and be much easier on the people who have to retrieve or carry the boxes.

Line the bottom and sides of storage boxes with Plastazote, a polyethylene foam. This material absorbs impact and helps protect the fragile glass negatives and slides.

The negatives and slides, in their wrappers, should fit snugly into the box—to minimise movement.

Store the slides or negatives vertically in the storage box. Place a piece of Plastazote about every ten slides-to absorb any impact and to minimise movement.

Group the slides and negatives according to their size.

Glass negative or magic lantern slide storage box. Note that each individual item is wrapped. Photograph courtesy of Artlab Australia

Opaltypes

Opaltypes are photographs on opaque glass and are 100 years old. Remember that this old glass is very brittle and the slightest bend will cause a break.

Opaltypes need a rigid support system.

The support system is made up of a rigid backing, with rigid side strips at the top, bottom and sides.

Gator foam, thick plywood—sealed—or thick Masonite are all suitable. Acids are not a problem with opaltypes; but they are photographs, so take care to avoid sulphur-containing materials.

A damaged opaltype. Photograph courtesy of Artlab Australia, reproduced with permission of Lyn Kilsby

The rigid backing can be seen in the foreground. The bottom side strip is not yet in place. Photograph courtesy of Artlab Australia

The side strip should be the same depth as the opaltype. A window mount can then be placed over the opaltype. Photograph courtesy of Artlab Australia