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TEXTILES
Displaying historic costume
Many people feel that garments cannot be fully appreciated unless they are worn. It is difficult to get a complete picture of the cut of a garment if it is hanging on a coat-hanger. For this reason, garments are regularly placed on mannequins for display, however, the mannequins used are not always appropriate.
A costume needs to be displayed in the correct way: so that it is supported and not vulnerable to physical stress, and so that it communicates accurate information about the fashions and customs of its period.
The most important consideration when displaying a costume on a mannequin is to make sure that the mannequin is the right size and shape for the costume. Each costume has a particular silhouette which provides an accurate representation of fashions of a particular period; and this cannot be seen if the mannequin used is the wrong size or shape.
If you do not have a mannequin of the correct size and shape, it is relatively easy to:
Modifying an existing mannequin
A mannequin can be modified to suit the garment which you are going to display. If you have a choice, it is best to select a mannequin which is smaller than the garment, and then pad it to fit the garment exactly.
If you have a mannequin which is smaller than the garment, begin by measuring the garment in a number of areas, such as the hips, waist, chest, shoulders, shoulders to waist and inside trouser leg. Careful measuring will ensure that you will not need to keep trying the costume on the mannequin while modifying it. This minimises handling of the garment, which is very important, especially if it is fragile.
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The unmodified mannequin.
Photograph courtesy of Artlab Australia
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Then attach Dacron to the mannequin, to create the correct shape for the garment. The easiest way to do this is to cover the mannequin with a layer of tubular cotton stockinet fabric. The Dacron is placed underneath the Stockinet and held in place by the stretch of the fabric. Tacking stitches in white thread can be used if additional support is required.
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Mannequin padded out and wearing undergarments.
Photograph courtesy of Artlab Australia
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If you have a mannequin which is larger than the costume, the mannequin will need to be reduced in size. Electric sanders and saws are useful for this job.
Once the mannequin has been cut down it should be covered as described above. You may have to wrap the mannequin in cotton bandages to smooth over any rough surfaces before padding the mannequin.
Contemporary mannequins are generally not suitable for displaying historic costume because they have the wrong silhouette and inappropriate faces.
Undergarments should be made from white or unbleached fabric. They are particularly important in order to provide the correct support for the garment while on display. If a garment is not supported as intended, stresses will arise along the seams of the fabric and irreparable damage will occur.
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The completed mannequin, with costume.
Photograph courtesy of Artlab Australia, reproduced with the permission of the History Trust of South Australia
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Making a mannequin
The easiest way to make a mannequin for displaying costume is with chicken wire and a wooden stand. These are cheap and readily available materials that can be used to good effect.
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An 1860s dress displayed on a mannequin of the correct shape and style.
Photograph courtesy of Artlab Australia reproduced with the permission of the History Trust of South Australia
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The following instructions explain how to make a basic mannequin for a dress. The measurements used in these diagrams are a guide only; you will have to modify them to fit individual garments.
The basic stand is made of hardwood 25mm in diameter and approximately one metre long. The hardwood is sunk into a round base approximately 300mm in diameter and 40mm deep. The base may be heavier if necessary.
All wood surfaces must be sealed with a clear Estapol or the like. This slows the migration of acids from the wood.
Click here to see diagram
Drill 5mm holes through the stand at 10mm intervals. This allows for the waistline of the mannequin to be altered to suit a particular costume.
Place a steel pin through the holes to support the upper structure of the mannequin. The stand should be set into the base.
To form the hips and shoulders of the mannequin, cut two oval pieces of plywood to form the hips and shoulders of the mannequin.
Click here to see diagram
Glue the shoulder piece to the top end of a 270mm diameter PVC pipe. This pipe should slide easily over the timber forming the stand of the mannequin.
Pass the tube to the bottom of the hip section. Glue in place using Araldite epoxy resin. Paint the stand with acrylic paint to seal the wood and the PVC.
Click here to see diagram
Create the body of the mannequin by wrapping galvanised chicken wire around the frame. This can be attached to the top of the shoulder piece and the bottom of the hip piece.
Arms can be made separately from Dacron covered with fabric. They can be inserted into the sleeves or armholes of the costume first and then attached to the body using Velcro dots. If you do not want an arm shape to protrude from the costume, acid-free tissue can be used to pad out the sleeves.
The waist is made by pulling a piece of string tightly around the cylinder of chicken wire. If you need to change the body shape of the mannequin, you can do so easily by bending the chicken wire.
Click here to see diagram
To pad the mannequin and protect your garments from the wire:
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cover the body of the mannequin with knitted cotton stockinet. Pull the tube of stockinet over the mannequin and attach it to the hip section. Then put Dacron in place to soften the surface of the wire and pad the mannequin to the appropriate shape; and
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stitch the top of the stockinet in place.
If you wish, you can cover the mannequin with a fabric which will enhance the appearance of the costume.
A collar can be made from a piece of fabric-covered cardboard. This will have to be made to fit each individual garment.
You can use a simply constructed mannequin like this for a variety of costumes. The basic framework is there and the size and shape can be modified easily to suit several costumes of approximately the same size.
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