TEXTILES

Selecting fabrics, threads and stitches for textile conservation

When preparing to mount or hang a textile for display, there are some important principles to remember:

The work you do should be reversible.

You should use only the minimum amount of stitching required to stabilise the textile.

Use the correct techniques and materials to ensure the long-term preservation of your textiles.

As a general rule, always use like with like. For example, a silk textile should be mounted on a silk fabric and stitched with silk thread. If you cannot use the same fibre, always use an inert synthetic fibre such as polyester. Using incompatible materials, such as using silk with cotton, accelerates the degradation of your textile.

Silk and wool are both protein fibres and are therefore compatible. Cotton, linen and other plant fibres are cellulose fibres and are compatible with each other.

Support fabrics

A support fabric is the fabric on which a textile is mounted before framing. As a general rule, always use like with like; that is, a wool fabric should be mounted on wool.

This fabric is often exposed, either forming a border around the textile or showing through areas of damage in the textile. Therefore, it is important that the support fabric is similar in colour and weave to the original textile.

If you cannot buy a fabric of the correct colour, weave and fibre type, you can have fabric dyed by textile conservators experienced in colour matching or by commercial dyers.

Threads

When selecting threads remember to always use like with like, for example, silk with silk or polyester, or cotton with cotton.

As a general rule, the finer the thread the better; but you will have to judge by the appearance of the fabric what denier of thread will be the most appropriate. For example, fine silk will require a fine silk or polyester thread. A woollen tapestry will require a coarser woollen thread.

Stitches

Before stitching your historic textiles, remember:

• to make sure that the needle passes in between the threads in the weave, not through them. If the needle passes through weakened fibres it can cause considerable damage;
• to keep the tension of the stitches fairly loose, so as not to damage the fabric; and
• do not use knots. Start your thread by leaving a tail at the back of your textile and stitch three small stitches in one position to anchor your thread.

The next section describes the main stitches used in textile conservation.

Laid and couched stitching

This is one of the main stitches used in conservation. It is used because it provides maximum support for the fabric with a minimal amount of stitching passing through the textile.

Click here to see diagram

Couching is used to stitch worn areas of the textile to a support fabric underneath it. The textile should never be under tension when being stitched.

Running stitch

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Running stitch is used to join two pieces of fabric together. It is used around the edge of a textile, and is also used when stitching a lining onto a textile in a grid pattern.

It is a good idea to do a back stitch approximately every 50mm: to lock the stitching in place so the textile does not slip along the stitching and so strain.

Stab stitch

Stab stitch is worked in the same way as running stitch, except the stitch on the surface of the textile is smaller than those underneath.

Click here to see diagram

Herringbone stitch

Herringbone stitch is generally used to stitch textiles with frayed edges. This stitch prevents further fraying of the textile. It is a useful stitch because it spreads the load of the stitching over a greater area of the textile.

The size and spacing of the stitch depends on the type of textile and the extent of the damage.

Click here to see diagram

If you have a problem relating to the storage or display of textiles, contact a conservator. Conservators can offer advice and practical solutions.