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Wood
Coating wooden objects
Think carefully before deciding to apply a coating to the surface of a wooden object. All coatings require maintenance, and they generally attract dust more readily than unfinished surfaces, increasing housekeeping needs.
Many oils, polishes and waxes have been used over the years to 'feed' or rejuvenate wooden surfaces. Wood does not need feeding; and products which claim to have this benefit are of dubious value.
It is most important to consider reversibility whenever applying anything to an object.
Oils—for example, linseed oil—applied to wood surfaces can crosslink as they age, becoming more and more difficult to remove, and frequently discolouring or darkening.
| For more information |
| For information on crosslinking, please see the chapter on Common Deterioration Processes in Damage and Decay. |
If the surface of a wooden object appears dry or patchy, it is better to use a microcrystalline wax polish such as Beckett's Clear Furniture Wax or Renaissance Wax. If necessary, these can be removed using white spirits at a later date.
| CAUTION: |
| Never apply products containing silicone to a wooden object. And avoid colorants. Silicone and colorants are usually found in proprietary furniture cleaners. |
Wax objects infrequently—once or twice a year at the most—with wax applied sparingly with a soft cloth. Polished items can be buffed lightly with a clean, soft cloth to maintain shine.
Consider refinishing an object as a last resort only. Remember that original and old finishes are as much a part of the object and its history as the wood from which it was made. It is appropriate that the surfaces of historical wooden objects have patina and look their age.
Many wooden ethnographic objects have very fragile surfaces—for example decorations painted in quite friable pigment. These objects should not be cleaned without the assistance or advice of a conservator. Neither should they be coated to consolidate the surface—such an action would cause considerable damage.
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